ANALYSIS OF CLOTHES OF PERSONS WITH DISABILITY WITH PALSY CEREBRAL FOR ADOLESCENTS BASED ON TOPOGRAPHY

This study aims to determine needs about form of clothing for disabled people with cerebral palsy for young women. The research was conducted at Development Foundation for Children with Disabilities, Jakarta. 5 respondents with disabilities were grouped into 2 group based on topography or the number of disabilities in their bodies. The research method used is qualitative with a case study research approach. The result of this study indicates the need for dress form according to the conditions of type of disability based on the topography, namely diplegia and triplegia. Respondents still need help from others in dressing; experiencing difficulties in dressing; comfort and like the position of the front opening; can use types of openings such as zippers, buttons


Introduction
Clothing in a broad sense is anything that is worn from head to toe that provides comfort and performs beauty for the wearer (Ernawati, Izwerni, & Nelmira, 2008:23).The function of clothing itself, viewed from a psychological aspect, can bring confidence and self-confidence can provide a sense of comfort.From the social aspect, clothing can also function as non-verbal communication which will convey the social status of the wearer (Ernawati, Izwerni, & Nelmira, 2008:25).At first, the function of clothing was to protect the body from the sun, weather, and insect bites.Along with the development of science and technology, the function of the clothes is also affected and developed.There is a group of individuals who cannot feel the function of clothing completely.They are people with disabilities, as mentioned in the journal of Clothing Need of Teen Girls With Disabilities (Stokes, 2010), related to fastening, wearing, and removing clothes are functional problems often described.
Besides the problem of independence in wearing or taking off clothes, people with disabilities are also still having difficulty finding clothes that are suitable and easy for them in the market.This is mentioned in the journal Clothing And Textiles For Disabled And Elderly People (Meinander & Varheenmaa, 2002), that finding clothes in retail stores is a problem for many people (people with disabilities).
In connection with the problems mentioned in the journal above, there is still a lack of clothing that pays attention to the convenience of people with disabilities.This fact is also supported in the journal Consumers With Disabilities Qualitative Exploration Of Clothing Selection And Use Among Female College Students (Chang, Hodges, & Yurchisin, 2014), mentioned the presence of consumers with disabilities is becoming more prevalent in social life and work, attention to consumer clothing needs of people with disabilities have increased.However, there is little research on consumers with disabilities and their dress behavior.
One of these labels is the label from designer Tommy Hilfiger which launched clothes that are friendly to people with disabilities through Tommy Adaptive.Several modifications were created to make it easier for people with disabilities to use them.For example, the hand hem can be removed, instead of using traditional zippers and buttons, they use magnetic zippers and velcro.Another sample is like side seam openings, the waist of the pants that can be removed.Some shirts are also designed with a neckline that is easy to open.
Regarding Anna Silverman's statement, it is stated for all the positive changes that the fashion industry has made in terms of diversity, there are still groups of people who feel underrepresented.It seems that models with disabilities are rarely seen on the catwalks, on billboards, or magazine pages.There is also a phenomenon where buyers with disabilities are far from the target or market reach, nearly one in five people in England and Wales are disabled and this is a market worth £ 249 billion.
Based on the relatively large number of people with disabilities, the government also provides a form of support for people with disabilities, as stated in one of the articles in the legislation.Law No. 4/1997 concerning persons with disabilities and government regulation 43/1998 concerning Efforts to Improve the Social Welfare of Persons with Disabilities (1997/1998): Article 5 states that "every person with disabilities has equal rights and opportunities in all aspects of life" (Arie, 2017).As a student in fashion, the writer realizes that people with disabilities have the same rights and opportunities in terms of clothing.They have the right to choose and wear clothes that are attractive, suitable, and most importantly comfortable to use within their limitations.
From the background of the problems described above, there is still a lack of research on consumers with disabilities.There is also a lack of concern for the ease of dressing for people with disabilities.The disability fashion phenomenon mentioned above shows there are still many people with disabilities who have difficulty in finding clothes that are suitable for them, especially to minimize their existing limitations.The results of the interview with YPAC showed that people with disabilities in this foundation still wear clothes designed with standard designs without paying attention to their limitations.If viewed from the number, people with disabilities can be the target market for the fashion industry.Then comes from the problem above, there needs to be ease for people with disabilities to minimize their limitations, especially when it comes to dressing.

Method
The method used in this study is the qualitative case study research method.A qualitative method with a case study research design is a research method that involves close, in-depth, and detailed examination of the study subject (case), as well as related contextual conditions.Case studies are defined as research strategies, empirical investigations that investigate phenomena in a real-life context.Case study research can be mean single and double case studies, including quantitative evidence, relying on various data sources and benefit from the previous development of theoretical propositions (Yin, 2013).Case studies are one of the research methods in social sciences.In research using this method, an in-depth longitudinal examination of a situation or event is referred to as a case using systematic means of observing, collecting data, analyzing information, and reporting the results.As a result, there will be a deep understanding of why something happened and could be the basis for further research.
This research was conducted at YPAC (Foundation for The Development of Children with Disabilities) Jakarta, as YPAC is a foundation that provides educational services as well as therapy for children with disabilities who also have several branches in several major cities and one of them is in Jakarta.The time of this study was conducted in the odd semester in the 2019/2020 school year.The population in this study was people with cerebral palsy disabilities.In this study, the number of samples was equal to the number of populations.
The techniques used in data collection are adjusting to the approach used, in which case researchers use a qualitative approach to case study methods.Robert K. Yin explains that "data collection for case studies may come from six sources: documents, archival records, interviews, direct observation, participant observation, and physical artifacts" (Yin, 2009).Evidence or data for case studies can come from five sources of evidence: documents, archival footage, interviews, live observations, cast observations as well, and physical devices.Of the five sources of evidence described by Robert K. Yin above, researchers used only a few sources of evidence, namely: First, due to the covid-19 pandemic and safety protocol issued by the government, researchers conducted a study by spreading online questionnaires to 5 SMALB students at YPAC included in the focus and sub-focus of research that are teenage girls with disabilities of cerebral palsy based on their topography who can communicate well.Second, in addition to disseminating questionnaires online, researchers also conduct semi-structured interviews as a data collection technique and adequate the collected data from the online dissemination questionnaire.Third, observations are directly conducted to obtain data on the needs of fashion design for teenage girls with disabilities of cerebral palsy.Fourth, a document review is conducted to complete the information obtained through interviews and live observation.Based on the above description, it can be concluded that in this study the data collecting techniques used are as described in the research method, namely using observation, poll dissemination, interviews, and documentation.After collecting the data, the separation is selectively adjusted according to the research purpose.

Result and Discussion
The results of the research were formulated according to interpretation and explained based on the subject of the researcher's description after analyzing the data with mixed methods obtained from the results of online questionnaires and interviewing speakers.From the poll spread, the researchers achieve a sub-focus that will be analyzed on "how the design of subordinates dresses for teenage girls with disabilities with cerebral palsy is based on topography".The sub-focus is: Functional for the subordinate design for teenage girls with disabilities with cerebral palsy for based on their topography (wearing and removing, comfort and mobility, fit).

Donning and doffing
Researchers giving questions regarding how to wear and remove lower clothing in cerebral palsy children.(1) Do they still need the help of others to wear or to remove subordinates' clothing?The answers from all five respondents, through questionnaires and interviews given by researchers, were "Yes" for the need of the help of others.To find out more in the researchers give the question (2) Does the companion accompany during each process of wearing or removing subordinates' dress?The respondent replied "Yes".The average respondent with cerebral palsy when wearing or removing their subordinate's dress was always assisted by an escort or others.This is due to the limited mobility experienced by the respondent.
Next, the researcher giving the question, (3) How should the opening position on the subordinates' dress?Is it on the front?, three out of five respondents agreed that the location of the opening of the subordinate's dress was on the front, one respondent disagreed and one suggested that the subordinate's dress for CP was made in such a way that it became an easy-to-wear garment.
Moreover, the researchers giving the question (4) How should the opening position on the subordinate's dress?What's on the side?One in five respondents answered "yes" while the other two respondents disagreed if the opening on the lower dress was on the side and one respondent gave the same advice similar to the previous question.Then the researcher asked a question with different options (5) How should the opening position on the subordinates?Is it on the back?two respondents gave a "Yes" answers and two others said "No" and one respondent did not answer.
From the researcher's question regarding the position of the subordinate dress opening, with the choice of opening system of lower fashion such as skirt or pants, respondents preferred the opening system to be at the front and back.The selection of subordinate dress openings from the side was only one in five respondents.The opening system on skirts or pants is usually dominated by the use of zippers or rubber buttons.To find out more, researchers give the question (6) How should the type of openings still be affordable easily?Four out of five respondents prefer to be without openings but using rubber.While one respondent prefers to use a zipper as an opening system.
Regarding the opening system using buttons, researchers ask the question (7) If subordinates dress use openings with buttons, what kind of buttons are easy to use?Of the five respondents, three of them prefer overlapping buttons or press, because they are easier to use.One person answered not all of them and one respondent did not want to answer.Researchers ask a follow-up question, namely (8) How many buttons and button sizes can still be tolerated?The answers from respondents varied from one, four, six, and other button used.The button they chose was a button with a medium base.
To find out more deeply, researchers giving the question (9) If using a zipper, what type of zipper is easy to use? Respondents' answer was two out of five respondents prefer iron or plastic zippers, while one person prefers to use a Japanese zipper and two respondents do not want to answer.Many respondents chose to use iron or plastic zippers because in terms of shape and size, the zipper is easy to touch, and the size is not too small.

Comfort and mobility
The clothes used by everyone affect comfort in their daily activity.In this study, researchers asked the question regarding comfort form of clothing subordinates that are comfortable to use (10) Can a subordinate dress with loose rubber on a particular part provide convenience?For example on the ankles like jogger pants.Or at the waist.With the question, the five respondents chose to use waist rubber to make it easier and elastic.
To deepen the research researchers gave the follow-up question of the lower fashion puzzle used by cerebral palsy children (11) What kind of clothing subordinates are often used?The answer from all five respondents, they liked pants subordinates that used rubber and loose, in addition to using rubber and loose 2 respondents added like shorts.Related to the sub-focus of comfort and mobility one that should be considered is the type of material, to know that researchers give questions about the type of material that is comfortable for fashion subordinates (12) How is the type of material comfortable to use? Stiff?' Textured/ not?Stretch?The respondents replied, they liked the material that fell, not too rigid and cozy when used.Color is a personal image of a person.Related to previous questions, to deepen knowledge of the needs of children with cerebral palsy.Researchers ask the question (13) In the selection of fashion subordinates is there a color that is loved and that is not loved?Respondents responded according to the personality of the respondents.A person's favorite color cannot be matched, because they have their personality traits.The researchers made a question regarding color selection ( 14) Is there any special consideration in choosing the color of the subordinate of the dress?If there's a reason?Respondents said they varied according to their color personality, preferring a color that is not dark.Fashion is one way of communicating and expressing one's style.Researchers asked (15) if they were happier and often used pants/skirts/pants skirts?The answers of the five respondents varied two respondents liked skirts, although liked skirts but not to be fussy then respondents preferred to wear pants, one respondent used a pants skirt, and two respondents pants.The respondent's answer can be seen that to facilitate mobility and to be simpler respondents are more likely to wear pants.To know and deepen research, researchers ask the following question ( 16) In choosing subordinates prefer models/comforts/both? Respondents responded to comfort and the model was in desperate need.

Fit
In the sub-focus of fit or conformity with body size, researchers asked respondents (17) how are the beloved clothes subordinates, who have leeway, or who are fit on the body?Although they have limitations on their body parts, they have their fashion style.Seen from the answers of five respondents who chose a varied model of pants, one respondent answered wide long pants, one respondent was a loose subordinate and used a rubber waist, one respondent what mattered was the cozy material, one respondent pants material and one respondent answered slack pants.Judging by the varied answers but can be concluded on this question that respondents prefer to wear loose pants and made of cozy material.To find out more about fit clothing subordinates, respondents were asked (18) More pleasure, often, and comfortable when using a dress subordinate with a length that is how long?respondents' answers vary according to their character.Models of beggy pants with acceptable sizes are maxi,midi and angkel.

Conclusion
The conclusion of the research "Analysis of The Needs of Clothing Forms of People with Disabilities With Cerebral Palsy For Teenage girls" with 3 sub-focuses that are wearing and releasing (Donning and doffing), comfort (Comfort) and Mobility (Mobility) and Fit.In how to wear and remove (Donning and Doffing) the lower clothing in cerebral palsy children, they still need the help of others and in every process of wearing or removing their clothing subordinates are always accompanied by companions or parents, this is due to the limited mobility experienced by the respondents.For opening positions and subordinates, there is expected to be no noticeable difference but easy-to-use openings for either respondents or companions.
The opening position of the subordinate dress prefers the opening to be in front and back with the use of buttons that overlap with a maximum of five buttons with medium size buttons.Meanwhile, subordinates who use zippers can use iron or plastic zippers of medium size to make it easier to touch.The use of waist rubber to make it easier and more elastic on pants or joggers is also a consideration when creating designs for cerebral palsy children.
Furthermore, the comfort sub-focus, stated that the subordinate clothing that respondents preferred was shorts with models of baggy pants maxi size, Midi size and angkel.The type of material used is a falling material, not too rigid and cozy with a color that suits the age of adolescence, can be a dark color but not black so as not to get dirty easily.As well as models and comfort are needed in the design of the subordinate's clothing.
In the sub-focus of fit or conformity with body size.The preferred fashion subordinate is a loose bottom with trendy pants but still pays attention to comfort and that can facilitate the mobility of the wearer.The selection of loose pants and easy wear also affects mobility which will be easier and also will be easier to wear and remove clothes.Judging by the average body size of respondents who tend to be large, the use of loose clothing subordinates anticipates the condition of weight gain and all respondents use wheelchairs this results in them more often with a seat position so that with loose clothing will facilitate the respondents' activity.This looseness is also seen from the selection of the form of subordinates of fashion.